Udaipur

Night reflections

After our hectic few days in Mumbai, Ron and I were looking forward to leaving the big cities behind. Our next stop – Udaipur.

Thinking it would be better to travel in the early morning when it would be cooler, I’d booked a six o’clock flight.

Getting an Uber in the middle of the night in Mumbai was easy, and even though it was three o’clock when our transport arrived, the city streets were still busy.

The twenty-minute journey passed without incident, and as our taxi entered the airport grounds, passing through yet another checkpoint, we caught a glimpse of the imposing international terminal – the white marble against the night sky giving the impression of an elongated structure something like a hovering spaceship.

It was our first internal flight and our first experience navigating India’s airport security.

I watched as passengers lined up outside the departure hall entrances confused at which we should take.

We opted for a queue where an official in army uniform was checking passports and flight documents.

All went well, and once inside the cavernous departure hall, we checked bags at the Indigo Airlines drop-off counter and then made our way to the carry-on baggage checkpoint.

The officers were meticulously, but this meant a considerable pinch-point in the proceedings, with people frantically trying to grab their belongings once they’d been processed, desperate not to miss their flights.

I also discovered that women have their own line for being body-checked – carried out behind a curtained area away from the men. The search was quick and efficient, and I retrieved my bag well ahead of Ron, whose replacement hip had set off alarms -again!

I watched with amusement as, yet again, he was taken to one side to be body searched (it was now a regular occurrence for him when passing through checkpoints). Once the official was satisfied he wasn’t a threat, they waved him on his way.

Our flight arrived in Udaipur at 7.30 am, and it was a relief to find our driver waiting to take us to our accommodation – Little Garden Guest House. 

I thought we’d have to wait until the advertised 2 pm check-in, but the owners were happy to give us our room on arrival. I wasn’t going to argue, especially as we’d been up since two that morning.

The guest house, on a quiet side road, was accessed via a gated archway. Inside was a large courtyard with a beautiful, old stone building, with a veranda on the ground floor and a balcony above. The owner explained it had been the family home and had been in their family for generations.

Booked into a room on the third floor, I slowly made my way up the stairs but was struggling for breath when we arrived. Seeing my discomfort, the young man who had escorted us called the owner, who readily agreed to give us a room on the ground floor. It does pay to be an oldie sometimes!

Our room was delightful, with a four-poster bed, sofa and bright, modern furnishings. After the whirlwind of travel since our arrival in India, this was just what we needed, a place to relax and allow our bodies and minds to catch up with one another. A chance also to try to shake off the chesty cough that was still causing me discomfort.

Delhi was our arrival city, a chance to recover from our flights. Mumbai was an opportunity to walk in family footsteps.  Our arrival in Udaipur marked the real start of our holiday and I couldn’t wait to get started.

Little Garden Guest House
Little Garden Guest House
Ground Floor Courtyard
Ground Floor Courtyard
Four-poster bed
Four-poster bed
Courtyard
Courtyard

Once we’d unpacked, we were offered breakfast on the first floor in a lovely twin-roomed area with small tables and a buffet breakfast for guests.

Feeling much more relaxed, we returned to our room, showered and slept until the early afternoon.

Deciding to explore, we left the tranquillity of our guest house and walked up a narrow road where motorbikes, tuk-tuks and pedestrians vied for road space, the air thick with fumes. Shops lined the streets, some selling basics such as water and snacks while others offered tourists an assortment of trinkets, pashmina shawls, fabrics and other memorabilia. Some of the shop assistants tried to entice us in, offering discounts.

Drawn to one shop in particular (the young man outside reminded me of a singer who had performed in the main square in Cuenca the previous Christmas), I promised to return to purchase a few items before I left the city.

After walking for ten minutes, we turned left, hoping to get away from the traffic and found ourselves in a network of narrow lanes, one of which led to the banks of Lake Pichola, the tranquillity of the spot in complete contrast to the bedlam of the city’s streets.

We stay a while, sitting on the stone steps, watching the boats on the lake before deciding to retrace our steps back to the guest house. I’m usually good at finding my way around, but I hadn’t been concentrating on my surroundings, choosing to window shop as we walked. We soon realised we were lost.

Everyone we asked, while helpful, couldn’t point us in the direction of our guest house. I’d left my phone behind in the room, thinking I wouldn’t need it while walking around town. We’d also forgotten to ask for a business card giving the guest house address.

Eventually, we found someone who could direct us back; it was only a five-minute walk!

Ron appeared to be recovering from whatever bug he’d caught in Delhi. He was still sleeping a lot but seemed much better.

I began to feel unwell – a dry cough that had troubled me for a few days became more persistent. I bought cough medicine from the local chemist and ordered ginger, lemon and honey teas whenever I could.

That afternoon, we visited the City Palace – built over four hundred years ago – on the edge of Lake Pichola.

Wandering the halls and courtyards gave a fascinating insight into life through the centuries. Galleries with miniature paintings, Laxmi Vilas Chowk – an art gallery with imposing displays from the Mewar era; tiles from the Dutch and Chinese in Chini Chitra Shala and the Mor Chowk (Peacock Square) where three peacock designs represented the seasons, winter, summer and monsoon – five thousand pieces of coloured glass, gold blue and green giving the effect of magnificent peacock plumage.

Wandering the palace grounds was tiring, especially in the heat of the day, so we headed back to the guest house, deciding to take a boat trip on the lake another day.

Sunset over Jag Mandir
Sunset over Jag Mandir
City Palace arches
City Palace arches
Elephant outside Palace
Elephant outside Palace
Peacock Royal Palace
Enjoying Udaipur
Enjoying Udaipur
Man feeding pigeons
Man feeding pigeons
Muscian at Gangour Ghat
Muscian at Gangour Ghat
Footbridge Udaipur
Footbridge Udaipur
Gangour Ghat
Gangour Ghat
Golden hues Lake Pichola
Golden hues Lake Pichola

The following day, we took a tuk-tuk to Sajjangarh Fort (the Monsoon Palace), perched on a hilltop high above the city.

Built to study the build-up of monsoon cloud formations and an astronomical centre by the Maharana Sajjan Singh of the Mewar dynasty, the palace became a hunting lodge when Sajjan Singh died unexpectedly, and his son inherited the property.

A jeep ferried Ron and me to the top of the hill, bouncing around the uneven, potholed road, careering around hairpin bends without any thought for oncoming traffic.

We survived and spent a few hours wandering the grounds; the air cleaner than we’d experienced for a while, which allowed views over the valley towards the city. The palace must have been a wonderful retreat with clean mountain air and 365-degree views of distant hills, lakes and valleys.

Sightseeing was tiring! We got our driver to drop us off at the footbridge to the Little Prince restaurant on the banks of Lake Pichola, where we sat and relaxed for a while, sipping our favourite beverage, ginger, lemon and honey tea.

View of Udaipur from Sajjan Garh Palace
View of Udaipur from Sajjan Garh Palace
Sajjan Garh Palace
Sajjan Garh Palace
Monkey at Sajjan Garh
Monkey at Sajjan Garh
Sajjan Garh Palace
Sajjan Garh Palace

After a couple of hours rest, we decided to take a boat trip around the lake in the evening. It was wonderful to be on the water again. What is it with me and water?!

The tour took us past the city palace and then towards Jag Mandir Island, a pavilion built in the middle of the lake for nobles to use when the air was too hot in their city accommodation.

We wandered the gardens and watched a beautiful sunset over Lake Pichola, before our boat took us back to shore. 

It was dark by the time we arrived back at the guest house. Time to pack again. 

We were up before the sun; the sky still inky black as we made our way to the alley where our tuk-tuk driver was waiting. Our hosts were there to say goodbye.

Our stay had been all we’d hoped. I could have stayed longer, but it was time to move on. Next stop, Jaipur.

Sunset over Lake Pichola
Sunset over Lake Pichola
Jag Mandir Pavillion
Jag Mandir Pavillion
Jag Mandir Gardens
Jag Mandir Gardens
Jag Mandir to Palace