Amritsar

We flew from Varanasi to Amritsar via Delhi; the trip, with a two-and-a-half-hour wait in Delhi, took most of the day.

Our hotel – yes, we decided to splurge and live in comfort for a few days – was luxurious compared to some of the hostels we’d stayed in previously. The room was comfy and quiet, with no honking of horns or fireworks to disturb our sleep. On the outskirts of Amritsar, The Fortune Hotel was an oasis for us. We relaxed and did nothing for a few days, enjoying the sun terrace and relaxing by the rooftop pool.

It took two days before we felt able to venture into the city and visit the Golden Temple, our main reason for visiting Amritsar. I also wanted to visit the Partition Museum.

I knew a little about the Partition of India, but I had no idea of the horrendous details. The museum, through its exhibits, told the story of how the decision, taken by the British in 1947, tore India apart, displacing thousands.

Ron and I spent the morning walking through the various exhibition rooms, reading documents and commentaries, horrified by what had taken place and the destruction the decision to divide the Indian sub-continent caused. The British had a lot to answer for.

Evidence showed that there was also a deep mistrust and dislike between Muslims, Sikhs and Hindus that also contributed to the outcome in no small way.

The exhibition was fascinating but also extremely disturbing. I left with a feeling of sorrow and shame, and being British, deep regret for what happened in August 1947.

Back in the sunshine, we tried to shake off our malaise as we sauntered along crowded streets. With only light traffic allowed in the area around the temple, it was a pleasant walk as we joined excited, happy families slowly making their way towards the entrance to the Golden Temple.

Before entering, we had to remove our shoes and deposit them in one of the many kiosks, receiving a token in exchange for our footwear. We were both a little concerned we’d get the same shoes back when we returned our token.

Barefoot, we made our way through the entrance to the temple, the marble tiles cool beneath our feet.  

Inside we stood for a while, taking in the incredible sight the Golden Temple majestic against the whitewashed buildings that surrounded the still waters of the lake. 

Joining the crowd, we began a slow, clockwise walk around the lake. A group of young children stopped us, asking to take photos with us, all giggles and laughter when we agreed. 

We sat on the steps for a while, dipping our toes into the cool water of the lake, amazed to see multi-coloured koi fish swimming by, before continuing our walk around the lake.